Last night my good friend PJ and I went surfing off the west coast of Ireland, at Bundoran Reef, to say “screw you” to winter and to just do something we haven’t done in over a year.
You want to try and make sure your board is pointed toward shore when that wave comes up behind you, allowing for maximum time up on your board.
Sometimes, you get so much momentum, that you can ride a few meters into shore! PJ and I were laughing like crazy after this particular wave. I announced “I win!”
There was also this new dude named Tony who was smoking a talking joint (Jesus fucking Christ, drugs talk too?!) and trying to chat us up. We talked about all the stuff we did in SL, and I ended my spiel with “Oh, and my husband and I are musicians.” And then to really drive it home PJ said, “My wife and I own an art gallery.” Hoohoohoohoohoohoohoooooooo, wipeout.